How to Spend a Long Weekend in New Orleans

New Orleans, Louisiana has always been on my list of cities to visit someday so it was wonderful to finally get there this past February. We arrived right after Mardi Gras to find the city-wide cleanup in full swing. Reminders of the celebration were everywhere, from the temporary bleachers on the street to the beads hanging from the trees. While I’m sure it would’ve been a unique experience, I was a little relieved to miss Mardi Gras. By visiting when we did, we avoided a lot of crowds and the very real possibility of getting vomited on in the street. As you might know, New Orleans is one of few American cities with open container laws, so visitors tend to overdo it with the numerous nightlife options that this city boasts.

Clocking in under four hours, the flight to New Orleans from New York is super convenient for a short trip. We opted to stay at Hotel Monteleone, which was historical as well as centrally located within the French Quarter. If you, like myself, like to be able to explore on foot as much as possible when traveling, this is the perfect homebase for your trip.

Our first stop was to get some delicious barbeque. We went to Blue Oak BBQ and ordered a pulled pork sandwich as well as the two-meat combo plate with brisket and chicken. For sides, we had garlic mac n’ cheese and brussels sprouts. I know brussels sprouts aren’t for everyone but these are the best we’ve ever tasted. I never thought I’d dream of getting the chance to eat a specific vegetable again but these were next level. They also have a great drink selection. I recommend the “I’ll Be Damned” frozen bourbon slushie. Also, get here early if you want a full selection- they run out of certain menu items like ribs, which can be a real bummer to miss out on when you’re only in town for a short trip.

After dinner, we caught some live music and enjoyed some cocktails at the hotel bar before hitting Bourbon Street. There’s lots of bars to choose from, but you can’t go wrong finding a spot with a balcony to hang at and people watch.

One of the coolest spots to have a drink at is The Old Absinthe House, known for, you guessed it, their absinthe. If you’ve never tried this liquor, it has a strong licorice taste. Their absinthe frappé, comprised of sugar water and absinthe, is lit on fire when served. The bar itself is covered practically floor to ceiling with business cards of visitors. This place is definitely a must-visit on Bourbon Street.

Other bars worth checking out are Pat O’Brien’s and Lefitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar. The former is known for their signature rum cocktail, the Hurricane. Be sure to catch one of the dueling piano shows in the lounge while you’re there. Lefitte’s, an 18th- century pub and historical landmark, is disputedly the oldest bar in the country and serves up the Voodoo Daiquiri, a grape-flavored daiquiri with bourbon and Everclear. It was late in the night by the time we dropped in, so I opted not to add grain alcohol to my day but I’d definitely like to try this drink during a future visit.

The next day, we slept in after a long first night out. We made our way to Bearcat in the Central Business District for brunch. Just a heads up, they don’t take reservations, so you’ll definitely have to wait for a little but they do get people in and out fast. We shared the breakfast potatoes; crispy potatoes with a mornay sauce (bechamel with added cheese) and scrambled eggs on top. I’m really not a breakfast person and I could’ve had these as my meal. They were that good. For my main, I had a sausage, egg, and cheese biscuit, which was excellent. My boyfriend loved the Cajun gravy biscuit and side of sausage that he had. You really can’t skip this place! There’s an uptown location too if that fits better with your other areas of interest.

You’ll probably need a nap or a walk after that meal. Being less than a thirty minute walk from Jackson Square, this is a great time to see that area. You can also see the Mississippi River after admiring the picturesque square and St. Louis Cathedral. My favorite part of this area, however, was Café Du Monde. While it was every bit as touristy as I expected, I think the beignets (French-style doughnuts) are more than worth the hype. Besides beignets, this cash-only New Orleans fixture is known for its chicory coffee. There was some debate in my research over who serves the best beignets and it came down to Café Du Monde or Café Beignet. While Café Beignet offered more variety with chocolate topping and strawberries, I preferred Café Du Monde where the beignets stood alone without needing any add-ons.

To top off our day of amazing eats, we had dinner at Morrow’s in the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood. This is another great spot that doesn’t offer reservations but is well worth the wait. There’s a few bars in the area to kill time at until you can be seated. We chose to hang at St. Roch Tavern which was close by, divey, and affordable with friendly bartenders.

At Morrow’s, we had some great mojitos and my boyfriend enjoyed the gumbo. I had the Morrow’s fried chicken with garlic mashed potatoes and mac n’ cheese. My boyfriend had a fried shrimp platter and sautéed spinach. We both loved our meals. I only wish I could’ve eaten more of it without getting full!

A good alternative area to Bourbon Street that we found to be a little more low-key was Frenchmen Street. The bars here had an older crowd for the most part. We enjoyed the live music at The Spotted Cat Music Club and getting drinks at Brieux Carré Brewing Company.

Whether or not you stay at the Monteleone, you should make time to visit the Carousel Bar there. Spinning since 1949, it is the only rotating bar in New Orleans. It takes fifteen minutes to make a full rotation so you won’t have to worry about any motion sickness while you sip a drink and snack on some truffle fries.

Other foods you’ve got to try in New Orleans are po boys, jambalaya, and muffaletta. Luckily, these dishes can be found all over the city. We went to Killer Po Boys to try some sandwiches. Muffaletta is another traditional sandwich with meats, cheese, and olive dressing that is unique to the area and definitely worth sampling.

One last restaurant worth mentioning is The Rum House. Located on Magazine Street, a popular spot for shopping and food, they craft tasty beverages and tacos. I was also surprised and delighted that a quality mac n’ cheese was a possibility for a side at a taco place. (If you haven’t noticed yet, yes I do have the palate of an 8-year old but a ~discerning~ one, I’d say.)

Overall, New Orleans was one of favorite cities to visit. You can experience so much in just a few days. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

More travels to come very soon! Thanks for reading!

Zagreb and Split, Croatia: Beaches, a Fortress and.. a couple trips to the Hospital

After an amazing time in Budapest, some friends and I made our way to Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. We checked into Chillout Hostel, a cool place with a bar downstairs. Just a warning: Croatia allows smoking inside in bars so if you’re not a smoker or smoking bothers you, I’d recommend not choosing a party hostel when visiting. It wouldn’t normally be an issue for me but I ended up getting very sick my first full day in the country. I had some sort of allergic reaction to bug bites and respiratory problems with a fever. The added smoke killed my lungs when they desperately needed a break. I quickly realized I had to go get myself checked out but, used to the American “healthcare” system and without insurance, I was nervous about the possible cost.

After two hospital visits and a barrage of tests, I was told I had tonsillitis and some sort of allergic reaction. I’ve had both in the past but I think both were exacerbated by my being essentially alone in a foreign place and the lack of home comforts. At the expense of seeming like an ugly American, I seriously missed air conditioning. Taking a cold shower every couple of hours just wasn’t cutting it. All I wanted was to be home but I also didn’t want to cut my trip short. The expense didn’t end up being as bad as I thought it would be and, hey, that’s why a good traveler plans for incidentals. It can’t always go our way. After a few days in a feverish nightmare, I was so grateful to finally explore some of the city.

The Chillout Hostel Pup
Zagreb from Above

Apart from walking around the city and having a couple meals (when I wasn’t puking in an alley), I enjoyed visiting the Museum of Broken Relationships. This is the most unique museum I’ve been to, with items that are donated and displayed beside stories of their significance in relationships. The website explains it best: “It is a museum about you, about us, about the ways we love and lose.” Basically, I went here to hurt my own feelings (very on brand), because why not bring down my mental health along with my physical health? All jokes aside, I highly recommend a visit if you’re in Zagreb or LA or wherever else these exhibits pop up. You won’t regret it.

The Museum of Broken Relationships

“We go to foreign cities in search of sensuality and possibly love. And vice versa: we get in love in search of making the city in which we reside unfamiliar. All love affairs happen in foreign cities.”
From “Undying Love, Love Dies” by Jalal Toufik
Delicious meal after I got out of the hospital but I couldn’t tell you where or who I was at the time
Falafel at Zrno Bistro

I didn’t eat much in Zagreb besides crackers and soup, but I had some great falafel at Zrno Bistro. Really nice place.

(Lower left): Me in that alley, brought down by the hubris of thinking I could eat a french fry

As much as I wanted to have more time to experience Zagreb, I’d been there a week, got my nose scoped and a steroid shot in the butt, so I was pretty ready to catch a bus, plane, boat, or windowless van out of there.

I was definitely ready to “Split.” Sorry, not sorry, for the pun.

Something about the ocean air always makes me feel better so arriving in Split was an instant jolt and I felt energized for the first time since Budapest. However, the uptick in my mood may have been due to the lovely air conditioning at the Airbnb.

We checked out Diocletian’s Palace, both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Game of Thrones location. The Cathedral of St. Domnius was a highlight of the trip. Game of Thrones fan or not, the Palace is worth a visit.

The Ivan Mestrovic Gallery
Cathedral of St. Domnius

The Klis Fortress was also used in the filming of Game of Thrones, as the city of Meereen. The views from the fortress are gorgeous. There’s also a room with excellent acoustics to practice your rendition of the theme song, not that we would have ever done that of course.

Klis Fortress

We took a ferry to Šolta to find a cool secret spot our friend knew about. It was a longer hike than we’d planned for but if you look at the picture below, you’ll see it was more than worth it to swim in this clear blue water.

Our secret spot in Šolta, Split
My friend Jay/ How I felt after hiking in Šolta

Bonus points if you time your daytrip to Šolta to catch the sunset from the ferry ride home.

Croatia was full of ups and downs for me personally, but I’m so glad I was able to see just a portion of what it has to offer. I’d love to return and see Dubrovnik one day and more of the islands off of Split.

Next stop, Ljubljana, Slovenia!

Summertime in Prague: Czech it Out

Wow, it’s been forever since I’ve posted any content! Honestly, it just felt weird to post anything during the pandemic. Even the thought of travel, particularly international travel, seems like the biggest tease at the moment. But even if I can’t go anywhere, I’ve found I can at least start using this time to catch up so I will be updating more often. Hopefully soon we will be able to get out there and go on some new adventures!

Continue reading “Summertime in Prague: Czech it Out”

Madrid: Exploring Spain’s Capital

One of the best ways to explore a new city is to experience it with a local, so I was lucky to become friends with one while in Galway. Not only did she graciously offer me a place to stay, but she also showed me her favorite spots in Madrid. We got around mostly by metro, which was easy to navigate and tourist-friendly as it offered passes for one to seven day stays.

Madrid has a few rooftop bars that allow you to see and photograph gorgeous panoramic views of the whole city. The one we visited was the Círculo de Bellas Artes. There’s lots of seating there so it’s a nice spot to spend a little time taking in your surroundings and enjoying a drink. Bear in mind that there’s a ton of direct sunlight and not much shade on the rooftop so pack some sunscreen.

Views from Círculo de Bellas Artes
Gran Via

Another cool rooftop bar we went to was called The Hat, a hostel bar that served food and drinks. The drinks were pricey but novel, being served in plastic bags. Definitely not an eco-friendly choice, but they were lovely and paired perfectly with the scorching Madrid summer.

We spent some time relaxing in Retiro Park, a nice place to wander and get a break from the city’s crowds. It’s a great place to read, go for a boat ride, or have a picnic. Be sure to check out the Crystal Palace, a building made almost entirely of glass and situated next to a lake.

El Retiro Park and Crystal Palace

The Royal Palace is a must-see when you visit Madrid. The palace and grounds are impressive and you can spend a lot of time exploring the area.

Royal Palace and me, completely unaware of what to do with my limbs
Royal Palace grounds

During my time in Madrid, I ate a lot of tacos and burritos. When you visit, Takos al Pastor are a requirement. Don’t be discouraged by the queues that stretch down the street. They move fast and once you get up front to order, your food arrives almost instantly. The tacos are by far the best I’ve had, available with chicken, al pastor (grilled pork), potatoes, chorizo, and more. Pro tip: Go early to try the al pastor tacos- they seemed to sell out the quickest so I unfortunately wasn’t able to try them. Overall, I can’t think of a better late-night meal.

Tacos from Takos Al Pastor

Another awesome place I tried was Tierra Burrito Bar. With three locations throughout Madrid, it’s super convenient to grab a bite there. I’m always on the lookout for the best burrito and the ones they make here were definitely contenders.

One last thing you should try in Madrid: the Tinto de Verano. This drink, comprised of red wine and citrus soda, is a refreshing and delicious summer beverage. If you’re a fan of sangria, you will love it!

That’s all for Madrid. My next stop will be Portugal!

How’d they know what my sleep paralysis demon looked like?

Valencia, Spain: A Good Place for a Siesta

Valencia, Spain! When I touched down in Spain, it may have only been May but it jump-started my summer. As usual, I got super lost looking for my hostel Home Youth Hostel Valencia. Once I got there, I was excited to see it was super clean and cozy and the staff was ready to tell me everything about this beautiful city. I’m not sure if it was the late hour or the dehydration, but my eyes began to glaze over as I remembered my friend’s highest recommendation: the agua de Valencia. To my luck, there was a great restaurant right outside the hostel called Escalones de la Lonja. The first meal I ordered there was a chorizo, egg, potato, and pepper dish with agua de Valencia, basically a boozier mimosa. Another night, I tried the potatas bravas. Everything I ate there was delicious and the location could not have been any better based on where I stayed.

Patatas Bravas and Agua de Valencia
Chicken Caesar Salad at Blanquita Bar

Valencia’s Central Market was just steps away from my hostel. One could easily spend a few hours exploring all the stalls there. I went every morning while in Valencia. The market was packed with options but the fresh fruit juices were my favorite things to buy there. Outside one of the entrances, they sell churros and horchata, a non-dairy rice milk beverage. The horchata was interesting to try, but as someone who doesn’t really drink milk, it felt a little heavy. The churros were delicious but next time I would definitely order some chocolate to dip them in.

Mercado Central
Churros and Horchata

Another food I tried in Valencia were empanadas at a place called Dempanadas. The food was awesome and inexpensive and service was fantastic. I had a bacon and cheese and a spinach and cheese empanada.

Empanadas

Aside from eating your weight in tapas and empanadas, there’s plenty to do and see in Valencia. I went on a historical tour to see some of the sights. You can’t miss the Valencia Cathedral. I’d read online that it was really cheap to climb the bell tower there rather than visit the rest of the church. If you’re religious, this cathedral is home to what many believe to be the Holy Grail. The journey to the top of Miguelete Bell Tower consists of a 207-step spiral staircase that leads you to a viewing platform. Once at the top, you can see panoramic views of the city. If you startle easily, like I found out I do, be aware that the bells will be deafening from up there. It quickly dashed any fantasies of me becoming the next Quasimodo. Another warning is that this trek counts as leg day and you may feel like you need some new legs the next morning. I vowed to not even look at a staircase for several weeks.

Miguelete Bell Tower
Views from the Top

My top recommendation for this city is to seek out as much street art as you can find. Valencians are very proud of their street art and some of it is even commissioned to be on buildings by the owners. Take a street art tour so you can hear about the artists that beautify Valencia’s neighborhoods.

Street art is everywhere in Valencia. Just take a look around when you’re exploring and you’re bound to find something cool.

If you’re planning a trip to Spain, you should definitely consider spending a few days in Valencia. The art, food, and general laid-back vibe make it worth a visit. My one big regret is not being able to try the Valencian paella (heads-up, the authentic restaurants only sell it to parties of two or more). I was too shy to seek out a paella buddy at this point in my adventure. My next destination will be Spain’s capital, Madrid!

Brussels, Belgium: Where Waffles are a Snack and Fries are a Meal

I arrived in Brussels slightly nervous since Belgium was the first country I’d be visiting during this trip where the native language was not English (unless you count heavy Scottish accents and believe me, you probably should). It was time for me to drag out my limited French and see how I could get by on that.

The main attractions in Brussels are pretty easy to find and clustered together so it was super walkable. If you took a wrong turn (my specialty,) you would probably find something else worth seeing or better yet, find something worth eating. My first stop was the Grand Place, a beautiful market square surrounded and filled with lots of places to eat. I spent some time just people watching here and watching a free open-air concert that was being held that weekend. The buildings there just begged to be photographed from every angle. Nearby, I walked through the Royal Gallery of Saint Hubert, the fanciest shopping mall I’ve ever seen. Manneken Pis, a cheeky statue of a boy relieving himself, consistently drew large crowds of tourists. There are similar statues, one of a little girl and one of a dog, but I didn’t go out of my way to find them.

Manneken Pis

One of my favorite things about Brussels was the Comic Book Route, a walk that exhibits some comic-book inspired street art. These pops of color along with the Rainbow crosswalks in the Saint-Jacques neighborhood set Brussels apart from many other European cities that can sometimes look interchangeable.

Congress Column

The tram system in Brussels was really easy to navigate so I made my way to the Atomium. Originally an exhibition for the Brussels World Expo in 1958, it attracts many tourists as a museum and landmark. I mostly just used it as a photo op and an excuse to get another waffle.

I am not a breakfast person by any means but I knew I had to try a fresh waffle while in Brussels. In a twist of fate I never expected, I went back for two more before I left town in search of the best waffle I could find. There were so many to choose from so I was left waffling (sorry, not sorry) over this big decision. The first place I tried was La Funambule. My half chocolate syrup and half vanilla syrup covered waffle was delicious. The next one I tried was at the Atomium- best and only waffle I’ve had from a van and a reminder that no matter where I am, wet wipes should be an essential in my bag. The last and favorite one I had was at a place that I never got the name of and couldn’t find on Google. It is in the Manneken Pis area and has a giant Nutella sign on the wall. If you find it, the cookie butter waffle is unbelievable.

Endless waffle possibilities
Two words: Cookie Butter

You can’t go to Belgium and not try the fries! I did an embarrassing amount of french fry research and decided to get some fries from Fritland. These twice-fried treats were fully worth waiting for, which is fortunate because queues are usually long. I tried mine with andalouse sauce, a Belgian specialty combining mayonnaise, tomato paste, and peppers. They were served straight out of the fryer in the traditional cone container.

Les frites, c’est chic

My last meal in Brussels was at a place called Houtsiplou. I had the cheese croquettes and they were amazing. I thought only being served three wouldn’t have been enough food but I was very wrong. I couldn’t even get through them all, let alone touch the fries and bread! Highly recommend this place.

I didn’t take advantage of it but Brussels is in a great location. If I return, and I truly hope I do, it’s possible to do so many daytrips and add some places to the itinerary. I would go to the Belgian cities of Bruges and Ghent and maybe even venture to Luxembourg.

Grand Place

Spain, here I come!