Exploring Porto: Peacocks and obviously more Pasteis de Nata

I knew only seeing Lisbon would not be nearly enough Portugal for me, so I headed to Porto. I didn’t know it at the time but there was a big football game during my stay. It made for a loud couple of nights near the hostel. Luckily the fans weren’t getting as crazy as the ones I encountered in Madrid.

One of my first stops was Manteigaria for pasteis de nata since I’d exhausted my supply on the three hour journey over. They were just as delicious as in Lisbon.

I set out kind of aimlessly to check out the sights in Porto and was fortunate to stumble upon the Miradouro da Vitória. This was a nice viewpoint that overlooks the Dom Luís I Bridge. It was a little hidden but there’s a small sign. The best part: it’s free unlike other viewpoints in the city!

You’ll find beautiful blue and white tile work on the Igreja de Carmo and lots of other buildings you’ll encounter in Porto.

I’d recommend checking out the baroque architecture of Clérigos Church and really paying attention to the amazing amount of detail that went into this structure.

Visiting the Jardins do Palacio de Cristal was easily one of my favorite parts of my trip. The reason for that is almost entirely peacock-related. While the gardens were very nice, I really just followed peacocks around for a couple hours (which will now be made very obvious since they’re basically in all the following photos). No regrets.

Those plumes though.
Okay. Now he’s just showing off.

Seeing the gardens was well worth the very long walk from the center of town.

One place I didn’t get the chance to see was the Livraria Lello, a bookstore that was inspiration for J.K. Rowling. So if you’re a Potter fan, definitely reserve a spot early if that’s on your list!

I really enjoyed seeing what Porto had to offer, and feeling ten pounds heavier from the delicious desserts, I continued on and caught my flight to Paris!

Lisbon & Sintra

I made it to Lisbon, Portugal very early on a Spring morning after taking an overnight bus from Madrid. Portugal has become a super popular destination in recent years and I was thrilled to have the opportunity to see it for myself. I checked into Goodnight Lisbon but couldn’t get into my room yet as it was 8 am. Exhausted but also ready to explore, I decided to take a tour around the city offered by the hostel. I’m glad I did as it helped me acclimate and get used to the hilly terrain (as much as one can get used to it). I was also lucky enough to meet a few awesome fellow solo travelers that I spent the majority of my time with whilst in Lisbon. I highly recommend this hostel and its staff, and I’ve heard great things about Good Morning Lisbon too. Both offered free breakfast every morning which is such a great perk when you’re trying to stick to a budget.

Once I laid eyes on the Praça do Comércio I was in love with the beauty of this city. All the climbing during the tour was worth the inevitable soreness- a small price to pay for these gorgeous views.

Praça do Comércio

During my first tour, I learned that the Portuguese weren’t fond of dancing but they loved sad music. These must be my people. If I were to visit again, I would make sure to see a traditional Fado show. Fado shows are unique to Portugal and are characterized by their mournful, sad lyrics.

Pink Street

The Pink Street area of Lisbon is the hipstery part of the city, with lots of trendy bars. The street itself is a great photo opportunity for travelers.

Spend the day with yourself. Let nothing distract you. A poem emerges so young and so old. You can’t know how long it has lived in you.

I can’t offer a lot of recommendations for food in Portugal because of my seafood aversion. If you’re a seafood lover, you will have so many options in Lisbon. I had some great falafel at a vegetarian place in town called Juicy. Their smoothies were tasty as well.

Falafel at Juicy

My favorite thing to eat in Lisbon was undoubtedly the pasteis de nata. These custard tarts were delicious and addictive. The local tour guide swore by the ones at Manteigaria and they did not disappoint. You can also find gelato in the flavor of these treats.

Pasteis de Nata (aka the only dessert you could ever need)
Pasteis de nata gelato: worthy of portrait-mode status

I took a tram to Belem and spent the afternoon there. I checked out Belem Tower and the nearby Discoveries Monument. It was nice to walk along the water there, hearing live music being played from musicians on the grass. I was too lazy to brave the lines, but if you want to compare the Lisbon pasteis de nata to those in Belem, definitely head to Fábrica Pastéis de Belém. A day trip to Belem would be the ideal amount of time to appreciate this area.

Belem Tower Riverside Walk
Belem Tower
Jerónimos Monastery

Sintra is absolutely beautiful. My first tip is don’t do what I did. I didn’t commit enough time to explore this town. Wake up early and make your way over there to get the most of its beauty, or better yet, book accommodation there. I arrived kind of late and felt like I had to rush around to see just a fraction of the sights Sintra has to offer. The easiest way around seemed to be the buses that went to each popular location. There are several so figure out which one fits your needs and time constraints. Strapped for time, I chose the one that brought me to the Castle of the Moors and the Palacio de Pena.

Views from the Castle of the Moors

Be prepared for lots of walking in Sintra- sneakers are a must. I got lost on the trails and never actually made it to the Palace (just one of several reasons I should’ve planned a longer day here) but managed to get some pictures from a distance. The grounds were also really nice to explore in general so I didn’t feel like I was missing out on too much. Also, one thing to note if you’re solo traveling: the tuk tuk drivers wouldn’t take me anywhere since I was by myself. I was told by friends that these were a cool way to get around but I guess it’s not worth it for the drivers to just bring one person to the sights. Slightly disappointing but the bus was convenient and not too pricey.

Palacio de Pena

Overall, Sintra is a great option for a break from the city. I’d love to go back one day and explore it more thoroughly.

My next stop is Porto! Portugal was far too beautiful for just one post. Hope you’ve enjoyed what you’ve seen so far!

Reflecting on 2019

Hi everyone! Happy New Year! I’m a bit late but is anyone really shocked? I just wanted to do a little post to update anyone who’s still reading about my travels. I’ve been home for about six months and despite missing backpacking, I’m enjoying being home where my family and friends are at a more reachable distance. With the start of the new year, I’ve been reflecting on 2019 and what it meant to me to finally be able to take this trip of a lifetime.

I started off 2019 in a pretty bad place; out of shape, in a toxic relationship, and feeling like I’d lost control of my goals. I was drifting, rudderless, through each day, and knew I had to make some huge changes. I’d been saving up for years to do some long-term traveling. It finally felt like the right time to cash out and commit to making my trip a priority. The change of scenery had immediate positive effects on my mentality. Travel teaches you so much about yourself and the fact that I was able to do it on my own gave me something to feel proud of for the first time in recent memory. That sense of confidence had been stifled as I was going through life on auto-pilot. The months had felt like days and the years were passing entirely too quickly, without any sense of personal accomplishment. I know that the years feeling like they were flying by is part of getting older but travel helped slow things down. Four months did pass more quickly than I’d have liked but the days all seemed longer, full of more unique experiences and moments. I had time to think about my day instead of just exhaustedly turning my brain off in hopes of sleeping.

I missed home but the great thing about home is you can almost always come back to it. Of course there were some small changes but mostly it felt the same as when I left it. Missing home can be agony but discovering new places and meeting new people everyday was ecstasy for me. I couldn’t have experienced the highs without suffering through the lows. I shudder to think of where I would be if I didn’t catch that flight. I would probably still be saddled with someone who spoke of supporting my dreams but secretly rooted for my failure. Now I know that I was right to yearn for more. My decision to leave, both my home and that situation, was validated in more ways than I can count. I can safely say I returned home stronger, happier, and healthier than I have ever been and I’m committed to keeping things that way.

Anyway, I just wanted to share a little bit about my personal relationship with travel in the hopes that it resonates with someone. If something is missing in your life, find it. You’ll be glad you did. I know I am.

I’ll be back to my regularly scheduled programming soon and share some photos and stories about my time in Portugal. Thanks for reading!

Madrid: Exploring Spain’s Capital

One of the best ways to explore a new city is to experience it with a local, so I was lucky to become friends with one while in Galway. Not only did she graciously offer me a place to stay, but she also showed me her favorite spots in Madrid. We got around mostly by metro, which was easy to navigate and tourist-friendly as it offered passes for one to seven day stays.

Madrid has a few rooftop bars that allow you to see and photograph gorgeous panoramic views of the whole city. The one we visited was the Círculo de Bellas Artes. There’s lots of seating there so it’s a nice spot to spend a little time taking in your surroundings and enjoying a drink. Bear in mind that there’s a ton of direct sunlight and not much shade on the rooftop so pack some sunscreen.

Views from Círculo de Bellas Artes
Gran Via

Another cool rooftop bar we went to was called The Hat, a hostel bar that served food and drinks. The drinks were pricey but novel, being served in plastic bags. Definitely not an eco-friendly choice, but they were lovely and paired perfectly with the scorching Madrid summer.

We spent some time relaxing in Retiro Park, a nice place to wander and get a break from the city’s crowds. It’s a great place to read, go for a boat ride, or have a picnic. Be sure to check out the Crystal Palace, a building made almost entirely of glass and situated next to a lake.

El Retiro Park and Crystal Palace

The Royal Palace is a must-see when you visit Madrid. The palace and grounds are impressive and you can spend a lot of time exploring the area.

Royal Palace and me, completely unaware of what to do with my limbs
Royal Palace grounds

During my time in Madrid, I ate a lot of tacos and burritos. When you visit, Takos al Pastor are a requirement. Don’t be discouraged by the queues that stretch down the street. They move fast and once you get up front to order, your food arrives almost instantly. The tacos are by far the best I’ve had, available with chicken, al pastor (grilled pork), potatoes, chorizo, and more. Pro tip: Go early to try the al pastor tacos- they seemed to sell out the quickest so I unfortunately wasn’t able to try them. Overall, I can’t think of a better late-night meal.

Tacos from Takos Al Pastor

Another awesome place I tried was Tierra Burrito Bar. With three locations throughout Madrid, it’s super convenient to grab a bite there. I’m always on the lookout for the best burrito and the ones they make here were definitely contenders.

One last thing you should try in Madrid: the Tinto de Verano. This drink, comprised of red wine and citrus soda, is a refreshing and delicious summer beverage. If you’re a fan of sangria, you will love it!

That’s all for Madrid. My next stop will be Portugal!

How’d they know what my sleep paralysis demon looked like?

Valencia, Spain: A Good Place for a Siesta

Valencia, Spain! When I touched down in Spain, it may have only been May but it jump-started my summer. As usual, I got super lost looking for my hostel Home Youth Hostel Valencia. Once I got there, I was excited to see it was super clean and cozy and the staff was ready to tell me everything about this beautiful city. I’m not sure if it was the late hour or the dehydration, but my eyes began to glaze over as I remembered my friend’s highest recommendation: the agua de Valencia. To my luck, there was a great restaurant right outside the hostel called Escalones de la Lonja. The first meal I ordered there was a chorizo, egg, potato, and pepper dish with agua de Valencia, basically a boozier mimosa. Another night, I tried the potatas bravas. Everything I ate there was delicious and the location could not have been any better based on where I stayed.

Patatas Bravas and Agua de Valencia
Chicken Caesar Salad at Blanquita Bar

Valencia’s Central Market was just steps away from my hostel. One could easily spend a few hours exploring all the stalls there. I went every morning while in Valencia. The market was packed with options but the fresh fruit juices were my favorite things to buy there. Outside one of the entrances, they sell churros and horchata, a non-dairy rice milk beverage. The horchata was interesting to try, but as someone who doesn’t really drink milk, it felt a little heavy. The churros were delicious but next time I would definitely order some chocolate to dip them in.

Mercado Central
Churros and Horchata

Another food I tried in Valencia were empanadas at a place called Dempanadas. The food was awesome and inexpensive and service was fantastic. I had a bacon and cheese and a spinach and cheese empanada.

Empanadas

Aside from eating your weight in tapas and empanadas, there’s plenty to do and see in Valencia. I went on a historical tour to see some of the sights. You can’t miss the Valencia Cathedral. I’d read online that it was really cheap to climb the bell tower there rather than visit the rest of the church. If you’re religious, this cathedral is home to what many believe to be the Holy Grail. The journey to the top of Miguelete Bell Tower consists of a 207-step spiral staircase that leads you to a viewing platform. Once at the top, you can see panoramic views of the city. If you startle easily, like I found out I do, be aware that the bells will be deafening from up there. It quickly dashed any fantasies of me becoming the next Quasimodo. Another warning is that this trek counts as leg day and you may feel like you need some new legs the next morning. I vowed to not even look at a staircase for several weeks.

Miguelete Bell Tower
Views from the Top

My top recommendation for this city is to seek out as much street art as you can find. Valencians are very proud of their street art and some of it is even commissioned to be on buildings by the owners. Take a street art tour so you can hear about the artists that beautify Valencia’s neighborhoods.

Street art is everywhere in Valencia. Just take a look around when you’re exploring and you’re bound to find something cool.

If you’re planning a trip to Spain, you should definitely consider spending a few days in Valencia. The art, food, and general laid-back vibe make it worth a visit. My one big regret is not being able to try the Valencian paella (heads-up, the authentic restaurants only sell it to parties of two or more). I was too shy to seek out a paella buddy at this point in my adventure. My next destination will be Spain’s capital, Madrid!

Where to Eat in the UK and Republic of Ireland

During my time in the UK and Republic of Ireland, I was lucky enough to eat some really delicious food. As this is my first food blog post, I feel it is probably necessary to apologize upfront for my sometimes limited palate. You won’t find any seafood in these posts but you will find a lot of Tex-Mex (yes, even in Ireland). I consider it a personal mission to find good tacos and burritos wherever I roam and they are always a go-to if I start getting hangry. So, with those small caveats, here are some of my favorite things I ate during the first part of my journey.

Dublin

I was in Dublin for the smallest amount of time but I set out to find some good shepherd’s pie. I headed to the Old Storehouse in Temple Bar and enjoyed it with a cider. It was good but I think I could have found better outside of the Temple Bar touristy area. Strapped for time though, it met my needs and the great service and live music provided at the venue made it worth a visit.

Another place I would recommend in Dublin is Queen of Tarts. The cute bakery is tucked away on a quieter street and was highly recommended online. I grabbed an apple crumble tart that was delicious but not cloyingly sweet. I’d recommend a visit there.

Belfast

My friend Joe recommended a visit to Pizza Punks Belfast and it did not disappoint. They make personal pizzas and you can customize what toppings you want. Since I had not had a Guinness yet, I went with a Guinness brisket and macaroni and cheese pizza. I was very happy with my choice and it lasted for two meals which is always a huge plus, especially whilst traveling. They also had a good selection of ciders there.

When I went on the Game of Thrones Tour, we stopped for lunch at the Fullerton Arms. I got an Irish chicken Caesar salad. I was sold on this choice solely because it had bacon. Everyone on the tour was pretty hungry and the service was so fast. I didn’t get a picture of my salad because I devoured it so fast. Aside from the food, this place is awesome for GoT fans. They have a door that is carved from a fallen Dark Hedges tree and their own throne set up so that you can take photos there.

GoT door at Fullerton Arms

Another place I tried in Belfast is Bao Bun, a Taiwanese street food restaurant. You can choose your base, protein, and sauce to make your meal. I chose the rice, chicken, and house combo sauce. It was full of flavor, but if I tried it again I would try the bao (steamed bun) as the base. For a quick and reasonably priced meal in Belfast, this place has you covered.

Galway

I was starving when I arrived in Galway and searched up and down the street my hostel was on for something that sounded good to eat. Luckily, I stumbled upon Vocho, a Mexican restaurant. The first menu item I ordered from there was a huge chorizo quesadilla that was filling and lasted two meals (budget-friendly yay). This place was so good I went back for tacos too. In three days, I ate Vocho as many times, so I’m definitely a big fan. It’s a fast and delicious option in Galway.

The other place I dined at in Galway was the Lighthouse Cafe. I met a friend for dinner here at this vegan and vegetarian spot. I ordered a salad with falafel and pomegranate arils. This will begin a pattern of me eating lots and lots of falafel so I apologize in advance for the lack of variety in the coming posts. This meal was as tasty as it was pretty.

Glasgow, Scotland

Firewater is a bar/restaurant across from the music venue I went to my last night in Glasgow. It was pouring out and in my typical fashion, I had left my umbrella at the hostel. I ran in and ordered some chicken tenders and fries not expecting much but some sustenance. I was surprised to find they had a nice kick to them and a great sauce- I’d definitely go back again.

Oxford, U.K.

It had been years since I had been back to Oxford and I had been dreaming of the Indian food there ever since I’d been away. Cinnamon’s was the first place I’d tried there and the food held up. Their chicken tikka misala tasted exactly like I remembered. I also tried another place this visit called Yeti, a nepalese place which was even better. The peshwari naan was insanely good.

A trip to Mission Burrito is always high on my list in Oxford. This time, they were serving a special barbeque pulled chicken so I decided to try that on my burrito. It was really good and in a good location if you’re spending a day in town.

Last but certainly not least, I finally had the opportunity to try Ben’s Cookies. They have a location within the Oxford Covered Market. I tried the Triple Chocolate Chunk and the Peanut Butter. They were both fantastic but I preferred the chocolate one because the peanut butter one had a ton of peanuts in it. That’s just a matter of preference though. I had been expecting a smoother cookie but the taste is still amazing.

That’s it for the UK and Rebublic of Ireland! Thanks for reading and keep an eye out for my next stop: Belgium!

Edinburgh and Glasgow, Scotland (or that time I forgot to eat a deep-fried Mars bar)

I was greeted at the airport by a large vending machine exclusively selling Irn Bru. Orange is an offensively bright color when you spent your night and early morning sleeping in an airport. There’s a guy in a kilt just wandering the airport, no luggage or anything- I could’ve sworn this was a fever dream but nope, it was just my weird welcome to Scotland.

Castle Rock, the hostel I booked in Edinburgh, was situated right next to Edinburgh Castle. You couldn’t ask for a better view (or a bigger hill to drag yourself and backpack up). The famous Victoria Street was very close and made me feel like I just stepped onto Diagon Alley from Harry Potter. If you’re a big fan of Harry Potter, you have to see Edinburgh. The inspiration for J.K. Rowling’s books is all over town. The Royal Mile was right near the hostel too, with bagpipers playing and lots of shops to check out.

Victoria Street

I went on three free tours- an Edinburgh one, a Harry Potter one, and a spooky tour. I’d recommend the Potter one run by The Potter Trail. It was very interesting to learn about the places J.K. Rowling incorporated into her writing and the guide was charismatic and knowledgeable. I had lunch at the Elephant House, where Rowling penned some of the series (but not the first book, despite what they say in all the signage). From the window, you can see the Edinburgh Castle which, along with a nearby school, contributed to how Hogwarts would be described in the books and portrayed in the movies.

View from the Elephant House
Gravestone from the Spooky Edinburgh Tour
Museum Context, a store with Harry Potter merchandise and photo op

Whilst in Edinburgh, I also climbed up to Calton Hill to get a panoramic view of the city and (almost) climbed up to Arthur’s Seat. It was raining pretty heavily and between the slippery terrain and my fear of heights, I decided against trekking all the way to the top of the ancient volcano. The views from where I surrendered were enough for me. This will probably serve as a pattern for the rest of the trip. I didn’t pay extra for the adventurous travel insurance. Plus, I had a band to see in Glasgow!

The view from (almost the top of) Arthur’s Seat
Duke of Wellington Statue in Glasgow

Glasgow was a tough place to find hostels that seemed decent, but I booked Euro Hostel off of a recommendation and it was fine. My favorite part was that they had a bar attached so I could eat, drink, and charge up devices whenever I needed to. The food was very inexpensive as well which was a big help for my budget.

I went to see the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. You could spend an hour or so here. I mostly liked the Floating Heads art installation that was suspended from the ceiling. I also spent some time at the Botanic Gardens, which were very nice to see during springtime. I walked Glasgow Green but other than the beautiful archway and being adjacent to the River Clyde, it wasn’t anything too interesting.

Floating Heads at Kelvingrove

I found a self-guided tour online of Glasgow’s street art called the Mural Trail. Hunting for all these pieces was a highlight of my trip. Along the trail, I stumbled upon the Glasgow Cathedral and Glasgow Necropolis, which I had planned on visiting anyway. The Necropolis, an enormous graveyard, was eerie but strangely beautiful. The immense size and detail that was put into each gravestone was unlike anything I’d ever seen.

Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis

My main reason for being in Glasgow was to see one of my favorite bands, Paws, play in their hometown at the Centre for Contemporary Arts. The venue reminded me of the smaller rooms in New York where I love to see concerts so I was psyched. The show was an awesome way to end my time in Scotland!