Zagreb and Split, Croatia: Beaches, a Fortress and.. a couple trips to the Hospital

After an amazing time in Budapest, some friends and I made our way to Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. We checked into Chillout Hostel, a cool place with a bar downstairs. Just a warning: Croatia allows smoking inside in bars so if you’re not a smoker or smoking bothers you, I’d recommend not choosing a party hostel when visiting. It wouldn’t normally be an issue for me but I ended up getting very sick my first full day in the country. I had some sort of allergic reaction to bug bites and respiratory problems with a fever. The added smoke killed my lungs when they desperately needed a break. I quickly realized I had to go get myself checked out but, used to the American “healthcare” system and without insurance, I was nervous about the possible cost.

After two hospital visits and a barrage of tests, I was told I had tonsillitis and some sort of allergic reaction. I’ve had both in the past but I think both were exacerbated by my being essentially alone in a foreign place and the lack of home comforts. At the expense of seeming like an ugly American, I seriously missed air conditioning. Taking a cold shower every couple of hours just wasn’t cutting it. All I wanted was to be home but I also didn’t want to cut my trip short. The expense didn’t end up being as bad as I thought it would be and, hey, that’s why a good traveler plans for incidentals. It can’t always go our way. After a few days in a feverish nightmare, I was so grateful to finally explore some of the city.

The Chillout Hostel Pup
Zagreb from Above

Apart from walking around the city and having a couple meals (when I wasn’t puking in an alley), I enjoyed visiting the Museum of Broken Relationships. This is the most unique museum I’ve been to, with items that are donated and displayed beside stories of their significance in relationships. The website explains it best: “It is a museum about you, about us, about the ways we love and lose.” Basically, I went here to hurt my own feelings (very on brand), because why not bring down my mental health along with my physical health? All jokes aside, I highly recommend a visit if you’re in Zagreb or LA or wherever else these exhibits pop up. You won’t regret it.

The Museum of Broken Relationships

“We go to foreign cities in search of sensuality and possibly love. And vice versa: we get in love in search of making the city in which we reside unfamiliar. All love affairs happen in foreign cities.”
From “Undying Love, Love Dies” by Jalal Toufik
Delicious meal after I got out of the hospital but I couldn’t tell you where or who I was at the time
Falafel at Zrno Bistro

I didn’t eat much in Zagreb besides crackers and soup, but I had some great falafel at Zrno Bistro. Really nice place.

(Lower left): Me in that alley, brought down by the hubris of thinking I could eat a french fry

As much as I wanted to have more time to experience Zagreb, I’d been there a week, got my nose scoped and a steroid shot in the butt, so I was pretty ready to catch a bus, plane, boat, or windowless van out of there.

I was definitely ready to “Split.” Sorry, not sorry, for the pun.

Something about the ocean air always makes me feel better so arriving in Split was an instant jolt and I felt energized for the first time since Budapest. However, the uptick in my mood may have been due to the lovely air conditioning at the Airbnb.

We checked out Diocletian’s Palace, both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Game of Thrones location. The Cathedral of St. Domnius was a highlight of the trip. Game of Thrones fan or not, the Palace is worth a visit.

The Ivan Mestrovic Gallery
Cathedral of St. Domnius

The Klis Fortress was also used in the filming of Game of Thrones, as the city of Meereen. The views from the fortress are gorgeous. There’s also a room with excellent acoustics to practice your rendition of the theme song, not that we would have ever done that of course.

Klis Fortress

We took a ferry to Šolta to find a cool secret spot our friend knew about. It was a longer hike than we’d planned for but if you look at the picture below, you’ll see it was more than worth it to swim in this clear blue water.

Our secret spot in Šolta, Split
My friend Jay/ How I felt after hiking in Šolta

Bonus points if you time your daytrip to Šolta to catch the sunset from the ferry ride home.

Croatia was full of ups and downs for me personally, but I’m so glad I was able to see just a portion of what it has to offer. I’d love to return and see Dubrovnik one day and more of the islands off of Split.

Next stop, Ljubljana, Slovenia!

3 Days in Belfast, Ireland

I decided on about a day’s notice that my second stop on my trip would be Belfast in Northern Ireland in hopes of it being a bit quieter and less overtly touristy than Dublin. My experience there was just that. I was able to relax a little- a big change from the urge to go-go-go in Dublin and try and see everything. I caught a bus to Belfast and checked into Vagabonds Hostel. This place was so cool and had the most social and friendly vibe and it will definitely be my benchmark for all future hostels. The staff and other people staying there were always making everyone feel included. It was just such a nice atmosphere overall. I even stayed an extra night! I would highly recommend it for solo or group travel- just a really awesome place.

For my first day, I had (shockingly) not done much research and set off on foot to see some sights. I was aiming for St. Anne’s Cathedral but despite the help of offline maps and very sweet and patient locals, I never actually made it there. So, after putting in some serious mileage, I returned to the hostel (which I miraculously found) and decided to admit defeat and get dinner instead. I’m going to do a whole separate post for my favorite foods I had while in Ireland soon!

The next day, I woke up for an early tour to see some scenery that has been used in the filming of Game of Thrones. Needless to say, I was geeking out and psyched to see what I was in store for. On the tour, we saw the Cushendun Caves, the Dark Hedges, the Giant’s Causeway and the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. They were all really cool to see whether or not you’re a fan of the show. The rope bridge was pretty daunting if you are afraid of heights but I’d say the views more than make up for facing your fears. One thing I would’ve liked, had I rented a car, would be to go to the Dark Hedges earlier in the morning or later at night because having so many people around did not make for the best photo opportunities. The Giant’s Causeway was really interesting to see up close. I don’t think pictures fully do it justice. The tour lasted for almost twelve hours. It was a long day with a ton of walking but so worth it in my opinion.

Cushendun Caves
Giant’s Causeway
Me after crossing the rope bridge
The Dark Hedges
Ballintoy Harbor, “Iron Islands”

For my final full day in Belfast, I headed to the Peace Wall to see the murals that illustrate ‘The Troubles’ between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. The parts of the wall that I saw were by the Falls and Shankhill Roads. If you’re interested at all in the history of this conflict I’d definitely recommend making this a part of your visit to Northern Ireland.

Galway’s the next stop on my trip so stay tuned for that post in a bit!