3 Days in Nashville, Tennessee

Earlier this month, I was lucky enough to get to visit Nashville, Tennessee for my one year anniversary trip. We stayed for three nights at the Downtown Virgin Hotel. We loved the boutique feel of the lobby and rooms and especially the fact that we were less than a ten minute drive away from all the city’s major hot spots. The room was very clean and had a rain shower, and the bed was super comfortable. Located in between Music Row and the Gulch, you can walk to many attractions. I’d recommend going in spring or fall if you want to do a lot of walking because the heat in August was pretty brutal. We ended up taking a lot of short distance Ubers which were reasonably priced and a good chance to ask some locals where the best spots are. We also enjoyed the rooftop pool that is available to guests for free or non-guests for a daily fee.

With the flight to Music City being less than three hours, it could make for an awesome weekend break from New York!

After checking into the hotel, we set off to the Gulch neighborhood to grab some breakfast. My boyfriend had visited Nashville before and raved about Biscuit Love. Don’t be discouraged by the line outside- it’s there for a reason and the food is totally worth it. I ordered the brown sugar lemonade and the S.E.C., a buttermilk biscuit topped with sausage, scrambled egg, and aged cheddar with sausage gravy added. My boyfriend opted for the mimosa and the Hungry Hash Bowl which had fried potatoes, bacon, eggs, and sausage gravy. Everything was delicious and filling and we even received some free bonuts (biscuit donuts) when the waitress saw my boyfriend’s Biscuit Love shirt. It was a great first meal and a warm welcome to Nashville.

There’s some murals to see while in this neighborhood, the most iconic of which is Kelsey Montague’s What Lifts You. This is the mural at the top of this post, the angel wings made popular by Taylor Swift. Another cute photo op can be seen below, Amelia’s Flower Truck.

I found this next spot in Music Row on Atlas Obscura, which if you’re not familiar, is a site that shows some off-the-beaten track attractions. There’s a hidden heart in the southern wall of Reba McEntire’s recording studio, Starstruck Entertainment. Since I’m not great with my directions, it took a little bit of hunting but we found it. It was added into the design to act as tribute to love and creativity.

Hidden Heart at Starstruck Entertainment

If you get a craving for sweets in the Music Row Area, you have to stop at The Baked Bear. They make homemade ice cream sandwiches with fresh-baked cookies. Between all the cookie, ice cream, and toppings combinations, the possibilities are basically endless. These ice cream sandwiches can get a little messy to eat but they succeed where I feel like a lot of similar confections fail. The cookies are fairly soft so they kind of blend with the ice cream so you get a better bite than with places that use a harder cookie that is prone to breaking. I went with the nutella chocolate chunk cookies and bear batter ice cream (like cake batter but blue) and my boyfriend got what I think was the cookie of the month (cheesecake) with vanilla ice cream and Oreo pieces. 10/10. You’ve got to try these if you’re in the area.

Another cool place to see in Nashville is Centennial Park. While I originally wanted to go because of a Taylor Swift lyric, I also saw on Atlas Obscura that there is a full-scale replica of the Greek Parthenon in the park. As someone who always misses Europe, I jumped at the chance to see it. Within this replica, there is a recreation of the Parthenon’s Athena statue, as well as a collection of artwork from the 19th and 20th centuries. The park is also home to some pretty cute squirrels. You can see one peeking out of the tree in the photo below.

One area you definitely shouldn’t skip is 12th Avenue South. We started a few minutes away at Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint, where we split a two person sampler of spare ribs, brisket, and two sides. We chose mac n’ cheese and hushpuppies. Everything was really tasty but I especially enjoyed the sides.

Martin’s Bar-B-Que

We took a short walk toward 12th Ave S to see some of the murals in the neighborhood, the first of which was the “Make Music, Not War” mural. Across from it, you’ll see a mural of flowers. As you continue up 12th Ave S and cross Paris and Halcyon Ave, you will see several other murals that are easy to spot. Once you reach Draper James, Reese Witherspoon’s store, you will see the I Believe in Nashville mural. Across from it, Draper James has a pretty blue and white vertically striped backdrop. We saw the floral wings along this avenue too but I’m not sure whether or not these are a permanent fixture.

To conclude our time in this area, we grabbed some doughnuts at Five Daughters Bakery. The shop itself was very cute and the doughnuts were amazing. We tried the seasonal brownie batter, the chocolate sea salt, and the King Kong. The King Kong was my favorite, a maple bacon croissant-style doughnut with vanilla buttercream. The chocolate sea salt was a close second, with its delicious balance of sweet and salty. Don’t let the price deter you, like our Uber driver who questioned our ability to still afford an Uber after eating here. These aren’t like three-bite Dunkin’-level doughnuts. They’re rich and indulgent enough to warrant the splurge.

Another favorite during this trip was Hattie B’s Hot Chicken. I couldn’t leave Nashville without having some hot.. well, mild chicken, in my case. I don’t know about you but the summer makes me sweat enough, so I wanted to get through my meal without sweating. Neither of us are spicy-food people, but my boyfriend tried the medium and it definitely had a kick. The chicken sandwich from Hattie B’s was probably the best fried chicken sandwich I’ve had and the pimento mac n’ cheese did not disappoint either. I’d love for one of these to open in New York.

Finally, let’s get to the nightlife! We mostly spent all three of our nights in Nashville around Broadway to grab some drinks and see as many bars and rooftops as we could. Almost all the spots we checked out had several floors of bars, all with different live music to experience. I’d recommend Acme Feed & Seed rooftop for a great view of the water around sunset.

As far as stages go, I think Kid Rock’s bar had a really unique look with the band far above the audience and bar. It made for a really cool show.

Some of the rooftop bars had DJ sets, if that’s more what you’re looking for. When we visited, Jason Aldean’s and Luke Bryan’s bars (which are connected) and Dierks Bentley’s Whiskey Row had this vibe.

Miranda Lambert’s Casa Rosa

If you need a break from drinking, Casa Rosa has some good Tex-Mex food. You’ll probably want a frozen margarita with it, but hey, at least you’ll have some food in your stomach.

Just let your ears be your guide and keep your ID ready for when you wanna hop to the next bar. One of our favorites was the Wild Beaver Saloon, a karaoke bar with a mechanical bull and arcade section.

My favorite bar we went to in the city is actually located in East Nashville. Rosemary & Beauty Queen serves up killer cocktails in a Victorian house. There’s a few main rooms inside along with the bar, as well as a patio and an upstairs bar with swings in place of barstools. I just really loved how different this place was to other bars I’d been to. It’d be a great place to hang with friends and enjoy a top-notch cocktail.

Nashville is such a fun destination and I hope you check it out! Thanks for reading and happy travels!

Zagreb and Split, Croatia: Beaches, a Fortress and.. a couple trips to the Hospital

After an amazing time in Budapest, some friends and I made our way to Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. We checked into Chillout Hostel, a cool place with a bar downstairs. Just a warning: Croatia allows smoking inside in bars so if you’re not a smoker or smoking bothers you, I’d recommend not choosing a party hostel when visiting. It wouldn’t normally be an issue for me but I ended up getting very sick my first full day in the country. I had some sort of allergic reaction to bug bites and respiratory problems with a fever. The added smoke killed my lungs when they desperately needed a break. I quickly realized I had to go get myself checked out but, used to the American “healthcare” system and without insurance, I was nervous about the possible cost.

After two hospital visits and a barrage of tests, I was told I had tonsillitis and some sort of allergic reaction. I’ve had both in the past but I think both were exacerbated by my being essentially alone in a foreign place and the lack of home comforts. At the expense of seeming like an ugly American, I seriously missed air conditioning. Taking a cold shower every couple of hours just wasn’t cutting it. All I wanted was to be home but I also didn’t want to cut my trip short. The expense didn’t end up being as bad as I thought it would be and, hey, that’s why a good traveler plans for incidentals. It can’t always go our way. After a few days in a feverish nightmare, I was so grateful to finally explore some of the city.

The Chillout Hostel Pup
Zagreb from Above

Apart from walking around the city and having a couple meals (when I wasn’t puking in an alley), I enjoyed visiting the Museum of Broken Relationships. This is the most unique museum I’ve been to, with items that are donated and displayed beside stories of their significance in relationships. The website explains it best: “It is a museum about you, about us, about the ways we love and lose.” Basically, I went here to hurt my own feelings (very on brand), because why not bring down my mental health along with my physical health? All jokes aside, I highly recommend a visit if you’re in Zagreb or LA or wherever else these exhibits pop up. You won’t regret it.

The Museum of Broken Relationships

“We go to foreign cities in search of sensuality and possibly love. And vice versa: we get in love in search of making the city in which we reside unfamiliar. All love affairs happen in foreign cities.”
From “Undying Love, Love Dies” by Jalal Toufik
Delicious meal after I got out of the hospital but I couldn’t tell you where or who I was at the time
Falafel at Zrno Bistro

I didn’t eat much in Zagreb besides crackers and soup, but I had some great falafel at Zrno Bistro. Really nice place.

(Lower left): Me in that alley, brought down by the hubris of thinking I could eat a french fry

As much as I wanted to have more time to experience Zagreb, I’d been there a week, got my nose scoped and a steroid shot in the butt, so I was pretty ready to catch a bus, plane, boat, or windowless van out of there.

I was definitely ready to “Split.” Sorry, not sorry, for the pun.

Something about the ocean air always makes me feel better so arriving in Split was an instant jolt and I felt energized for the first time since Budapest. However, the uptick in my mood may have been due to the lovely air conditioning at the Airbnb.

We checked out Diocletian’s Palace, both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Game of Thrones location. The Cathedral of St. Domnius was a highlight of the trip. Game of Thrones fan or not, the Palace is worth a visit.

The Ivan Mestrovic Gallery
Cathedral of St. Domnius

The Klis Fortress was also used in the filming of Game of Thrones, as the city of Meereen. The views from the fortress are gorgeous. There’s also a room with excellent acoustics to practice your rendition of the theme song, not that we would have ever done that of course.

Klis Fortress

We took a ferry to Šolta to find a cool secret spot our friend knew about. It was a longer hike than we’d planned for but if you look at the picture below, you’ll see it was more than worth it to swim in this clear blue water.

Our secret spot in Šolta, Split
My friend Jay/ How I felt after hiking in Šolta

Bonus points if you time your daytrip to Šolta to catch the sunset from the ferry ride home.

Croatia was full of ups and downs for me personally, but I’m so glad I was able to see just a portion of what it has to offer. I’d love to return and see Dubrovnik one day and more of the islands off of Split.

Next stop, Ljubljana, Slovenia!

Where to Eat in the UK and Republic of Ireland

During my time in the UK and Republic of Ireland, I was lucky enough to eat some really delicious food. As this is my first food blog post, I feel it is probably necessary to apologize upfront for my sometimes limited palate. You won’t find any seafood in these posts but you will find a lot of Tex-Mex (yes, even in Ireland). I consider it a personal mission to find good tacos and burritos wherever I roam and they are always a go-to if I start getting hangry. So, with those small caveats, here are some of my favorite things I ate during the first part of my journey.

Dublin

I was in Dublin for the smallest amount of time but I set out to find some good shepherd’s pie. I headed to the Old Storehouse in Temple Bar and enjoyed it with a cider. It was good but I think I could have found better outside of the Temple Bar touristy area. Strapped for time though, it met my needs and the great service and live music provided at the venue made it worth a visit.

Another place I would recommend in Dublin is Queen of Tarts. The cute bakery is tucked away on a quieter street and was highly recommended online. I grabbed an apple crumble tart that was delicious but not cloyingly sweet. I’d recommend a visit there.

Belfast

My friend Joe recommended a visit to Pizza Punks Belfast and it did not disappoint. They make personal pizzas and you can customize what toppings you want. Since I had not had a Guinness yet, I went with a Guinness brisket and macaroni and cheese pizza. I was very happy with my choice and it lasted for two meals which is always a huge plus, especially whilst traveling. They also had a good selection of ciders there.

When I went on the Game of Thrones Tour, we stopped for lunch at the Fullerton Arms. I got an Irish chicken Caesar salad. I was sold on this choice solely because it had bacon. Everyone on the tour was pretty hungry and the service was so fast. I didn’t get a picture of my salad because I devoured it so fast. Aside from the food, this place is awesome for GoT fans. They have a door that is carved from a fallen Dark Hedges tree and their own throne set up so that you can take photos there.

GoT door at Fullerton Arms

Another place I tried in Belfast is Bao Bun, a Taiwanese street food restaurant. You can choose your base, protein, and sauce to make your meal. I chose the rice, chicken, and house combo sauce. It was full of flavor, but if I tried it again I would try the bao (steamed bun) as the base. For a quick and reasonably priced meal in Belfast, this place has you covered.

Galway

I was starving when I arrived in Galway and searched up and down the street my hostel was on for something that sounded good to eat. Luckily, I stumbled upon Vocho, a Mexican restaurant. The first menu item I ordered from there was a huge chorizo quesadilla that was filling and lasted two meals (budget-friendly yay). This place was so good I went back for tacos too. In three days, I ate Vocho as many times, so I’m definitely a big fan. It’s a fast and delicious option in Galway.

The other place I dined at in Galway was the Lighthouse Cafe. I met a friend for dinner here at this vegan and vegetarian spot. I ordered a salad with falafel and pomegranate arils. This will begin a pattern of me eating lots and lots of falafel so I apologize in advance for the lack of variety in the coming posts. This meal was as tasty as it was pretty.

Glasgow, Scotland

Firewater is a bar/restaurant across from the music venue I went to my last night in Glasgow. It was pouring out and in my typical fashion, I had left my umbrella at the hostel. I ran in and ordered some chicken tenders and fries not expecting much but some sustenance. I was surprised to find they had a nice kick to them and a great sauce- I’d definitely go back again.

Oxford, U.K.

It had been years since I had been back to Oxford and I had been dreaming of the Indian food there ever since I’d been away. Cinnamon’s was the first place I’d tried there and the food held up. Their chicken tikka misala tasted exactly like I remembered. I also tried another place this visit called Yeti, a nepalese place which was even better. The peshwari naan was insanely good.

A trip to Mission Burrito is always high on my list in Oxford. This time, they were serving a special barbeque pulled chicken so I decided to try that on my burrito. It was really good and in a good location if you’re spending a day in town.

Last but certainly not least, I finally had the opportunity to try Ben’s Cookies. They have a location within the Oxford Covered Market. I tried the Triple Chocolate Chunk and the Peanut Butter. They were both fantastic but I preferred the chocolate one because the peanut butter one had a ton of peanuts in it. That’s just a matter of preference though. I had been expecting a smoother cookie but the taste is still amazing.

That’s it for the UK and Rebublic of Ireland! Thanks for reading and keep an eye out for my next stop: Belgium!